Details of Life on the Road: Street eats, cheap sleeps, budget travel experiences

The Annapurna Diaries: Day 6

The Annapurna Diaries: Day 6, Upper Pisang to Manang


Thank you worldly forces for colliding the Indian subcontinent into mainland and, through millions of years of titanic clashes (kind of…?), giving birth – though still in labour – to the Himalayas (maybe..?). What a sight they are. Captivating in their height. Every time I look up I’m stopped in my tracks and I stare silently in awe. The sun is unforgiving up here. Childish cheeks are sun-kissed, and the faces of elderly women look as if they’ve always been in the sun: leathery, weathered, have seen many days. The wind can be shockingly strong and cold, the nights are freezing, but it’s amazing how hot the day can be at 3,300 meters. We walked from Upper Pissang to Manang today. What should have been about 20km turned out to be probably about 22km. A long day. Perhaps the most difficult yet. The sky was cloud-covered and misty this morning but the sun soon came out and the mountains became visible and everything was white and blue. I peed 4 times during the night. Can you believe that? What the hell is wrong with me? Switch backs up to the next town and then down through pine valleys all the while being stared at by the Annapurnas. Walking into Manang felt like entering Tibet’s ancient city of Lhasa (only not…). Upon arriving, though, Manang felt like the aged set of a western movie filmed in Nepal, perhaps due to the Yak presence – yak hotels, yak restaurants, yak paintings, and, of course, actual yaks. The possibility of my inevitable demise is ever increasingly apparent while walking through the circuit. You can hear and see avalanches in the distance; you walk through snow-covered pathways on the side of mountain cliffs that could bury you in a moment; a wrong stop could see you a kilometer below; similarly, the soil and crumbling rock on a narrow pathway could give at any moment. Helicopters are seen flying above, most likely transporting the mountain’s newest victim to safety, just like the girl who caught hypothermia a couple of days ago. 6:00pm now, slowly getting hungry. Rest day in Manang tomorrow and maybe I’ll get on wifi and check out some flight prices.




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